Wrap the male threaded fittings
with Teflon
tape to improve the seal.
Your new faucet may come with a
mounting gasket or the instructions may direct you to create a
base using plumbers putty. If directed to use putty, roll out
a length of putty between your hands, about 1/8" in diameter
and long enough for the entire perimeter of the base of the new
faucet. Apply the putty gently to the base and then place the
faucet into position on the sink. Gently rock the faucet to create
a bond between the faucet and the sink. Make sure the faucet is
level and there are no gaps in the putty. Gently scrape away any
excess putty.
From beneath the sink, slide the
washers (if any) onto the faucet and fasten the lock nuts securely.
Do not over tighten the lock nuts.
Now connect the water supply lines.
You may be able to use the old supply lines or you may need to
install new ones. We like the flexible, braided stainless steel
supply lines because they are very easy to work with. Professional
plumbers often use rigid tubing because it is cheaper. However,
at a plumbers hourly rate, if he spends just five minutes cutting
and bending tubing, it already is costing more than flexible tubing.
Screw the supply line connection
to the faucet, making sure that you connect cold-to-cold and hot-to-hot.
Insert the drain lift rod and connect it to drain pop-up assembly.
Test the lift rod to make sure it seals and opens properly.
Remove the aerator
so that any debris in the water lines can be flushed out. Turn
on the water supply valves and then turn on the faucet for a few
seconds. Replace the aerator and then inspect the connections
for leaks.
