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How to Test a Burner Control Switch

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the burner control switch, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

This test is for an infinite, two-wire, burner control switch on an electric stove. Three-wire controls cannot be tested using this procedure. Testing of burner controls requires the use of a multimeter. Use of leads with alligator clips is important for safety as well as ease of testing.

  1. Start by turning off power at the circuit breaker or by unplugging the appliance.

  2. Remove the control panel back. It may be fastened with several small screws. Some controls may be accessed by lifting the entire stove surface with access being underneath.

  3. Locate the suspect switch for testing. Do not disconnect any wires.

  4. Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control on. Place one probe on pin H1 and the second probe on pin H2. The resistance measurement should be in the range of 20 to 120 ohms. If it tests significantly outside this range, you may have a bad burner, bad burner socket, or bad wires. The resistance measures the switch along with everything connected to the switch.

  5. If the control passes that test, test next for voltage. This test requires working with live current. If you are not familiar with working safely with or not comfortable working with live current, do not conduct this test.

  6. Set the multimeter to measure AC voltage, select the setting that is closest to but greater than 230 volts. Some meters are auto ranging and only require you to set them for AC Voltage.

  7. Disconnect the multimeter from the previous test. Make certain no electrical parts are shorted and then restore power to the appliance.

  8. Clip the first probe to pin L1 on the burner control switch, clip the second probe to pin L2. The multimeter should read about 230 volts. Not all switches have letters printed on the back. If your switch is not labeled, check the schematic for the color of the L1 &L2 wires. If you can't locate a schematic, with the power disconnected, trace where the wires go. One wire goes to the pilot light, two to the burner, and the last two, usually black and red, are the L1 &L2 wires.

  9. Next, with the current live, disconnect both probes and clip them to pins H1 and H2. If it measures no voltage, or a lot lower than 230 volts, this is an indication of a bad switch.

If the multimeter reads about 230 volts, the switch is ok. The problem may instead be an intermittent connection. Check the connections to the burner, turn the burner switch to a different position and re-check.

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